Is it good to operate with the out riggers all the way extended? I prefer to use dunnage on a fully extended outrigger to shorten it up into what I feel is the gut safe zone. This comes to mind because when outriggers are all the way out they look a bit more unstable. Has any one ever had an out rigger fail?

The shorter the leg extension the better. The shorter the outrigger extension the worse off you are. Cant always make the perfect setup but you can always make it safer with extra effort, and extra dunnage

I think your asking about structural integ of the leg. That depends on the machine and what is written in the operations book of that machine, the Sc...g 47 has to be in or out no inbetween. If thats what your asking. Or like some older machines the leg would drop as it came to its end, this was just rollers and guide wear, but the best location was all the way out of course, remember the old Thom's would have to be lifted to get them back in.

Failure has come with all models, but the introduction of the larger imports we see and run today I have seem a missed structure plate, not often but it happens, buddy broke his nose when the leg stayed up and the machine split at the tube at the main support of the pump. Machine baried the jib. Just a quality error and very lucky.

It has been a couple of years since I have ran a brand new machine. If I remember correctly on a new machine at full extension the outriggers look a little less sound than at partial extension.

Wow! Could you explain a bit more SD. The leg stayed up? Was the missing support in the outrigger storage cavity and that split?

Sure that makes sense until the boom goes over it hehe. Look at the 60 and 65 all riggers out and full of fuel and water for counter balance, thats scarey.

Like the thompsan the legs would drop at the full extention. That always made me wonder, now keep weight in them things have chainged.

The cavity was missing support yes, it was rare but it is documented.

Thanks Sd!

I hope you boys are having two different conversations. This happens a lot here.

1. Seed is, I hope, talking about the down cylinder. Pumps have different ways to attach and stabilize down cylinders. If you want to know if yours is stable at a given extension; set it up that way and watch it.

2. I do not care if your pour is 120 ft or 20 ft from your pump. Never boom over a partially (horizonally) extended outrigger.

It is either all the way out or all the way in (this is in reference to the horizonal [crowd] cylinder) not the down cylinder.

And every chance you get extend/or slew all outriggers all the way, all the time, and put pads under them (at least) unless you CAN NOT.

Good enough is NOT good enough. ;~)

That's correct Bob. I am speaking of the down cylinders. "Siteing" is good I agree. I have never liked the looks of a fully extended out rigger. Dunnage has to be the way to go. This is the first time I have ever thought about all the weight on the leg itself.  With 44,000 psi on the pad. It is hard to beleave they can hold up. Concrete pumps are  incredible machines.

This raises another question that I was thinking of the other day. We have a 07 putz that the water tank has rusted through already and has a 2nd water tank in the left X outrigger leg. Are these legs lined with something to keep them from rusting through or could someone expect an outrigger to rust through and weaken? I really can't imagine a manufacture making something that would rust that involves the structural integrity of a machine. But stranger things have happened.

mrmike36z, our putz 52m has some kind of plastic lining in the outrigger tanks. it is starting to peel out in chunks and we are worried about it getting into the water pump

Oops I was talking horizontal, hehe and yes agree of course about the short rigging. And yes Speed the vertical does scare me also.

Mike that sounds weird being an 07. The Concords are not lined and get checked regular.Mind you we drain regular maybe that helps.

I have never asked a factory service rep' but it seems to me that about the best you could do was to put a bit of diesel or hyd oil in the water tank ( small q'ty) and let it coat the interior of the tank as the water level drops. ;~)

Putz warrentied the water tank and we already have got the brand new one.  I was always told that leaving them full of water overnight helps them not to rust out so bad.  Can't do that in the winter but who knows if it works anyway.  Why cant they make these out of plastic.  It's not like they are pressuriezed with air.  Mcneilius makes mixer drums out of plastic why not a freaking water tank?

the water tanks are not rusting thru,there cracking due to no shock absorber under tanks have 4 06-07 putz three have new tanks, put rubber on mounting brackets no more problems

The ones with steel to steel mounting never have time to rust; they split long before that. Plastic tanks are the answer.

They actually sent pumps out with no shock absorbers under the water tanks, Why?

water tanks our cifa came with a 12" inspection door we drilled a hole in it and put in a zink plug we got from commercial fishing supply store no real rust problems any more first 2 trucks rusted out in 2 years

we use a soluble oil in our tanks to prevent rusting half a litre on a saturday