I poured 4" slab yesterday at USF St. Pete with our little line pump.  It was supposed to be a 2 day pump, but Cemex had a rather large order on day 2 and asked if we could do one day.  Sure why not.  Pour went smooth once we got the clump of rock out of the hose's.  It's always the first bit that pluggs the hose.  The only other issues we had were late trucks.  We could dump a truck in 20 mins, but after 1000 Hours trucks slowed down with almost 45 mins in between some.  Cemex eventully pulled drivers out of other plants to cover.  We finished pouring at 1730after starting at just before 0800.  Pump did well, used about 19 gals of fuel.  I regreased it about half way through.  Only problems I forsee pumping that long is cleaning up afterwards.  I spent almost 2 hours scrapping and chipping away and it still is not as cleann as it was before.  That will just take a day of cleaning only, if I ever get one.  Now I am concerned about the plate in the hopper that the S-Tube rides aginst, it has developed some scoring on it from the constant switching.  And the Right side Drive Cylinder squeaks every stroke like a old door.  It pumps fine and there is no signs of excessive wear other than that.  I have 2 more big pours tomorrow morning and super early Monday, I will see how it does.  My biggest concern right now though is my F550.  Besides the oil in the radiator, my A/C Compressor blew up last night right before I went to leave.  Man was it a hot ride home. 

I think if you put a little soap in that cylinder it will stop the noise, and the marks on you cutting rink could mean its to tight you can loosen the Nut on the S-tube about 1/4 turn, how old is the F 550 I pull with a F 350 V-10

 The scratches are normal wear marks and the noise sounds like mud cup wear. Soap or a bag of snot-slick willy or what ever you use to prime.

 Sounds like you have bigger problems with your truck.

It is a 2000 F550 7.3L ZF6 Speed 4x4.  It has 203K, last 10K in 5 months pulling the pump and other heavy trailers, and it is on at least its 2nd trans.  It has a rebuild date of 06 stamped on it.  We bought the truck from United Rentals in 08 I think.  It became the service truck and our manchainc was very easy on it while he drove it.  He said he was not gonna drive it anymore because he could not handle the size anymore.  Then it sat some, he never drove it much to start with.  After that it became the Pump Truck.  The oil in the coolent is pink but feels and smells like engine oil.  Thats all it could be.  Being a manule trans there is no trans cooler.  We think it is from the oil cooler leaking, so we are going to start there.  We hope its just the gaskets or the cooler, cus if it aint, we have major problems.  As far as the A/C goes, we put almost a hole can in it, and it seems to be holding.  The high pressure valve will blow again, but hopefully then we will have enough going to justify the fix.  Otherwise the pump guy is gonna die of heat storke.  It also has saggy front springs, a common issue, along with bad shocks, and its out of alingment.  Got new steer tires though and now have a spare.  I think all of the issues that are happening are from the now constant use and all the abuse it takes from the pump.  I was watching the CB Whips I have today, and they were shaking really good.  

From what I understand about the mud cups is that they should not need to be replaced for a few thousand hours.  And when they go, you will not be pumping much at all.  They look fine and pump fine.  

Those 7.3 engines are heavy I think its time to put new shocks and maybe springs all around.

The rear springs are fine, the fronts though look like they were installed upside down when I am hooked up though.  We all know it needs new leaf springs, but when the big boss man will not even spend $300 on his on car on stuff that it needs, you know money is tight.  That and it will be down for 3 or 4 days.

As far as mud piston noise,don't use slick pack for lubrication. It'll hold the heat, rather than cool properly. Use a little laundry or dish soap! 

REED trailer pumps, with their horizontal cylinders (as opposed to a boom pumps inclined cylinders) are supposed to be lubricated/cooled with hydraulic oil, not water. 

If stroking fast, then the oil level is kept lower to avoid  excessive splashing and losing oil out of the inpection cover.  There is a 'splash' behind the mud cup at changeover that will get oil onto the topside of the cylinder for ludrication on the return stroke. If pumping slower, then the level is to be kept a it higher. 

If water is used, there will most likely be water drawn back through the hydraulic cylinders seals when the oil in the cylinders cool at the end of the day, this will contaminate the hydraulic oil tank.  Trailer pumps don't require flushing of this oil every day like a boom pump and it's water does.  Change out and properly dispose of this oil and any accummulated grout/paste twice a year or more often if necessary, by your own judgement and monitoring grout/paste/sludge accumulation.  Used hydraulic oil is perfectly suitable for this purpose.

Check out REED's downloadable manuals here: http://www.reedpumps.com/concretepumpmanuals.htm

According to my TM the flush box oil should be changed at ever 100 hours.  So thats what I do.  The first time we took it to Eral, and he used Used Hyd Oil.  These last two times I have used what I had on hand, Bulk 64 Hyd Oil that we bought for sprying down the pump that is mixed with diesel.  The last time I changed that, 300 hours, there was a lot of "crap" in it.  I also keep it just about half full.  

Goose I run a OLIN 545 ball valve pump  and change my wet box oil every month but never over a month thats the reason you are here sounds from you mud cup  water and oil get milky and thicker when surry gets mixed in, I go to TSC store and buy the cheaper HYD oli they have, when you guys change your HYD oil in your pump save all you can to use in your wet box.

Yeah 100 hours is at 5 or 6 weeks for us.  We bought a 55 gal drum for like $550 we keep at the shop.

Sounds to me if you run 100 hours in 5 to 6 weeks maybe you should change your wet box oil every   25 hours cause when surrly starts seeping threw your mud cup it starts to thicken up after all the oil is saturated it becomes a paste then all the lubication is gone then wear sets in mine sometimes looks like cottage cheeze, on my Olin changing poly paks is a lot easyer than mud cups about one hour max and less in cost.

I double checked the wet box today while I was waiting on a truck that got stuck at the draw bridge and it was a little lower than where I filled it if I remember correctly.  It was also white and milky.  I have only put 40 hours on it since I changed it two weeks ago, but it has run about 500 yards through it in that time.  I am going to keep an eye on it and change it when I get a chance here in the next few days.  Also have to clear it with the boss which should not be a problem as I know more about the thing than he does.