My boss picked up a 2006 schwing 39 with that 2323-5 concrete pump, and yes this set up is almost all always got something pluging up the releaves, so we filter the hyd oil and clean the releaves and keep on trucking. last week the seal packing let water in to the hyd system threw the water box, I have changed the seals and the mud cups next reclean the releaves tomarrow and see if it will work. My question is? Is there any thing ealse that can be done to this set up? Like I said we have a filter cart that filters to 10 microns and spare releaves to change in case it get plugged on the job. This pump has more problems than I have time between maintenance on the outher three pumps and running mixers and dumptrucks running loaders and making repairs in the feild theres not much time to constantly unpluging the hyd system. Any help will be greatly appreciated

rockhard, what does the hyd. oil look like? is it cloudy? with all the problems you mentioned, you may have to replace the oil and flush the system; water enters the system in 4 places 1. chevron seals (did you replace the additional rod seal when you replaced the chevrons?) 2. agitator motor, when it leaks oil into the hopper, water enters the system the opposite way 3. air breather element (keep the pressure washer away from that filter, the one that is listed in the Schwing parts book, is a hyd. filter element, you need a descicant breather element) and 4. when filling up the tank with new hyd. oil (check with your vendor) on our trucks we run an onboard filtration system, made by Harvard Filtration, the filter element was not exactly designed to remove water, but it does an excellent job at exactly that; we also have a filter cart (by Harvard) but a 10 micron filter element is not enough, the filter element we use is a 3 micron; and yes, you do need to filter new oil, I have seen new oil dirtier than oil that has been in use; hope this will get you started, keep us posted

dont leave water in ur water box overnight after its been running that day bc what happens is the rod seals get hot an retract a little then when they cool off they expand thus letting water in the hydro oil or so ive always been told

I've heared that Putz recomends to at least drop the water level in the water box till under the hydr. cylinders. Exactly because the reason you just describe...

Im just so tired of this pump constantly needing something done to it although I found out that the previous owner had some kind of trouble with an odball packing and lip seal. I have installed new packing direct from cpr new oil will be here friday and new 3 micron fillters all around. As far as the water box the box is flushed after every job and not filled tell the next job, the school of hard knocks is a cruel teacher not saing that I know it all just saing its hard not to learn from it

yes one important rule is always leave your water box level no more than half way up the rod because if you fill over the entire rod as the rod heats and cools it will actually suck water into your main cylinders just a thought.

Ya know,for me I sure wouldn't overlook draining/cleaning of hyd tank,most folks don't clean.

Is this half full water box a common practice??

No.. For what i've heared you should only leave the level lower over night. Pump a few strokes in the morning and you can fill it up.... But thats just what i've heared...

Explain releaves.

Releaves. On top of the hyd pump for accumalater circuit, it has a adjustable cartage in the side of it, constantly geting some thing in it that will not let it work properly . Today I opened the hyd tank to look for any clues, it wasent to bad still cleaned it any way, put new filtered hyd oil back in, cleaned the releave on the accumulator circuit, now there is little to no accumulator psi on gauge and the rock valve doesn't move. I am just about to give up mabey tuesday I will think of some thing ealse after a long weekend. Lol

one thing that destroys almost every pump is dirt in the system; I dont know how many accumulator pumps I have changed; what I think you should do next is, filter the new hydraulic oil as much as you can,(ideally, filter oil out of the tank into a clean tote and then fill it back in); when you pull the cartridge of the pump regulator, make sure the spool is not scratched up, if it is, get some Scotch Pads and clean it up really good, it should slide into the regulator with no force (it is a lot easier to pull the spool if the hyd. tank is empty...)

when you changed hyd. oil,  did you you flush the system, you probably still have dirty oil in your system

you need to find out what type hyd. pump you have; if you have the A10 pump, there were a lot of dirt related problems with these A 10 pumps, of course the upgrade to the A11 pump is not exaclty a cheap option (the A11 pump is the same pump as the hyd. pump for the concrete pump, only a smaller version of that, the A10 pump has a bell shape and a regulator with stacked spools, sometimes you cant read the tag)

Well as we all know you can never get all the hyd out of the system. I started with the outriggers I cycled them tell I got the new filtered oil back to the to valve next ijacked the truck and cycled the boom tell I got new hyd I did all that could to make sure all the old cloudy oil got out. But still the accumulater circuit still has little to no psi. I hope the pump isent burned up.

I forgot to mention the oil I just put in is new and I put it in with filter cart all the oil got filtered as it went in. the hyd is 46 cheveron

Success at last stupid spools