we have 42 model 2008 pump working when you are trying to pump manual with levers but when you run it normaly from the remote it works until the left pisotn rod of the left pumping cylinder goes back inside the cylinder then both of cylidner stop.and plunger cylinders working probably and when you try to make change over the stroke from the remote one side make blockage and the other side the two pumping cylinder piston rod not moving untill it change the stroke then again it make blockage i.we checked the proximity switch nothing wrong with them.some one can help? 

what model pump?

It is 42 m putzimester 

Check the junction box for the proximity switches check all cables for continuity

It is doing the same also when using the rear control and cable remote

All of proximity switches has the green light and when the piston head pass from it it light orange at the sensor and at the junction box

All of proximity switches has the green light and when the piston head pass from it it light orange at the sensor and at the junction box

junction box maybe, does junction box have 4 or 6 proximities ? prox can show green light and still be not working properly, you can disconnect one at a time to check.

Four proximity switches

This is a true case of Chicken or Egg !

Watch the prox switches work, what you need to see is this, As the piston goes under the prox the yellow light should light up and the pump shifts, on both ends one then the other end.

What you need to determine is if the prox sends a yellow signal to the relay and then it pressures out it would then most likely be the relay. Watch this closely, you can watch the signal Yellow coming into the relay and then it shifts. Yellow in and no shift, Change the K238 relay. No yellow in look at switch wires and distribution box,

It is vital that the yellow is a FLASH not on constant, if a switch is stuck on this will hold the relay and not let it shift when it gets to the other end.

Another thing to check is the piston mud cups, Is there any build up of concrete on the face of the piston, this can cause the cylinder to pressure out just before it reaches the Prox switch.

Be careful during this not to change the placement of the wires this could mess up the sequence.

Also when installing the K238 relay take special care to make sure ALL the pins are straight and the alignment is proper.

In the pic you will see the pins are numbered, and on one end of the relay is a small tab this tab must go under the short lock strap.

This applys to 12 or 24 VDC pumps only the voltage of the relay changes, but the pins and lock tab remain the same.

The pics are of a circuit Modul card but it is same for the old style relay base.

Travel that's what i call the centipede plug. But try taking the prox out of one cyl and changing it to the other. I doubt you have all bad ones.Just 2 in one cyl

yes i think it is the case of chiceken or egg  we tried every thing and evey thing is working good by manual i will try to check the k238 relay but this model of pump come without modules with big motherboard

Your Relay Base might not is not on a Modul Card. It is seperate but all the same info applies, you will still have 2 LED's to look at and the relay cube mounts into the base the same way.

I will look for a pic to the base

yes there is two leds when you change over it;s changing but one of them should be lihghting at least

Can you take a picture of it, There are 2 Led's and they should lite altrenating Stroke A and Stroke B

No light no shift

You can test with a voltage meter the incoming signal.

But I will need to know your schematic number to tell you what pin's to check

Can you E-Mail me direct ?

woodsa@putzam.com

We had the same thing on our 36 it was the top 2 prox switches.