In response to the question about rust and corrosion in water tanks, I asked the Eng Dept and got a lot of info back, the anodes are composed of material that will work for pump tanks, it is grounded if properly installed, it does not need a grounding strap It works on the circuit provided in the outrigger, below are comments I received. I hope it helps.

I will also post a couple pics. I also have a much larger file that has a parts list and pages for location of the anodes for different Pedestal sizes for PM pumps I can e-mail to you.

I will also add my two cents worth to the topic also.  First, we do need to make sure the anode is electrically connected to the tank.  But,we do not nee d to have a wire connected to the anode.  This is because of the special design of the magnetic mount that we use.  If you look at the two pictures below you can see the magnet is inset about 1/32-inch.  This will allow the outer housing, which is connected to the anode, to contact the metal surface of the outrigger leg.  Now, if the primer was not removed from the leg before putting down the magnet the anode would not work correctly.  So in the 50/60 meter machines we have a sticker that is placed in the bottom of the tank before the leg is primed.  They then peal off the sticker and put the magnet down on the unpainted metal surface.  For 30/40 meter machines they must clean off any area before putting the magnet down.

As far as marking the tank goes I have found out the following information.  On 30/40 meter machines the center inspection plate is stamped with an "IN".  This stamp could be on the cover or stamped into the tank itself.  On the 50/60 meter machines the stamping is on or next to every cover on the leg.  It seems that in current production 30/40 meter stamps the cover and 50/60 meter stamps the leg itself.  But in saying this, most of the time you will not see the stamp after the machines goes to paint.  As you can see in the 30 meter picture below, the stamp is almost completely filled in with paint.

I think we have a lot of good information for the customer to check: is the anode connected to tank using our magnetic mounts, is the anode in the bottom of the tank so it stays under the water level (water's electrical conductivity is the hole reason this thing works, and is also why it doesn't work in an open atmosphere - air is not a good conductor of electricity), and do we have the proper amount of anodes in the bottom of the tank?

In March of 2007 PM released an ECN to adopt zinc anodes for use in outrigger water tanks.  Tanks built after April 5, 2007 should have anodes.  Initially the covers were stamped to denote the presence of anodes, but this was replaced with a stamping on the tank wall, in the area of the cover, because the stamped covers sometime leaked.  If there is a question about the presence of the anode, it is best to remove the covers and visually inspect.  The inspection should be performed annually to check the condition of the anodes.

OK, now the question is: What are the part numbers for the anode and magnet? I'm assuming that you can just buy the anode separately for replacement when the time comes. And what is the cost? Have they got a good stock? I can see a run on anodes coming up.

I have sent a Sheet to Todd to download I am having trouble converting an Adobe format to post. You can also e-mail me at woodsa@putzam.com and I can send it to anyone that needs it.

  We have kicking around at the farm a powdered product that we have to run through our steam traction engine.  I'll look for it to get the name and chemical composition.  The purpose of this chemical is to prevent corrosion in your boiler.  These boilers have to be inspected every year if you want to show your traction engine.  On a strange note.  You need to do an apprenticeship, write an exam and keep your license updated to run an antique traction engine but here,s your pump with 150 ft. boom have fun.  Ones for fun the other a career.  Hmmmmm. funny how life works.

That boiler is a big damn BOMB!! What harm could a concrete boom pump do? It looks like a video game!!

Ok here are the part #'s

General Information

Water Tank Corrosion Prevention

Issue: Depending on the quality of water used, some water tanks may experience corrosion on the inner surfaces. If the corrosion is not prevented, sealing and structural problems can occur.

Requested Action: To prevent corrosion issues, customers can purchase and install zinc anodes in their water tanks. How many anodes are needed depends on the pedestal style.

Parts Involved:

                           Anode- P/N 470483

                           Magnet- P/N 477339, (2 per anode)

                           Bracket- P/N 477479, (2 per anode)

                           Bracket- P/N 477480, (2 per anode)

                           Washer- P/N 037107002, (4 per anode)

                           Hex Bolt- P/N 032336001, (4 per anode)

                           Hex Nut- P/N 252098006, (2 per anode)

                           Hex Bolt-P/N 409204, (2 per anode)

         For additional information contact Putzmeister America Customer Support at

How long has Putz. been using anodes?And when will they send me a set,N/C of course.

      Traveltech,  Sorry For the shift in topic (attention deficit  hey look at the squirrel)  See>  Anyway I just thought if the chemical  could provide another possibly more economical form of corrosion protection that you could offer to your customers for peace of mind until they can get the anodes and get them installed might help you out.

No worries Granddad, My folks taught me there is lots of ways to Git-er-dun. just offering the PM point of view.