Does anyone know of a product to limit corrosion in water tanks. Some machines have water in legs or turret. Should be able to use a sacrificial material like used in marine environs.

Zinc or Magnesium, however machine would have to be constantly earthed to complete the circuit. This however would not guarantee corrosion free, just less corrosion than normal within a specific area.

Heheh hey mate ! Alex sprayed the inside of the 46 legs with mastic ( I think it was called that!) Really hard wearing cant scratch it ( I tried)

Ive never understood why engineers decided to use structural components as water tanks ??

Thru my years of inspections I have come across some very damaged outriggers due to corrosion,some of it was caused by a bad process the factories used for coating the interior . And that coating would flake off and get into water pumps and later on would ruin the integrity of the component thus needing a replacement .

The interior design of most water tank/outriggers makes them very hard to use an after market  coating. But there are some products that Schwing sells or do a google search for rust coatings,that you brush on or spray on, but again the problem is access to the entire interior.

If you have a problem with just surface rust you will be fine for years to come, but if there are large pitting areas then you may have to get an engineer involved to find out if you can save the component, I think it is like %30 of material loss due to rust when a replacement may be needed.

The only good way to make sure you get a good rust preventative coating on your component such as an outrigger is to remove it from the machine, thoroughly clean and possibly sand blast the interior and allow to dry. Then pour in your coating material and rotate the outrigger leg thru mechanical means to allow the coating to flow over the entire interior of the leg.Repeat as needed. Then reinstall your outrigger .

Its a alot of work to coat these components properly but if done correctly either by you or the factory they will give there owners years of safe use.But if done improperly it causes much grief for all involved.

Also check your warranty, if the rust is bad enough your manufacture may be able to help you out without much cost to you . I did an inspection on a 1985 schwing 42 meter 18 months ago ,its water tank was pitted so bad due to corrosion that it migrated into the front console, the factory decided to warranty this anceint pump and helped the owner replace all the parts for little to no cost to the customer. Now thats SERVICE.

Good luck to you which ever way you decide to go with this project .

Why don't they use anodes?

Im not completely sure on that bisley57,the engineers may not have even considered it ? Plus how effective would it be in such a large void as a water tank ? Personally I think they should have used a stainless steel liner for any outrigger used as a water container.

Actually PM had been using Sacrificial anodes in outrigger tank’s for a while now. They work on the same Idea as zink anodes for marine equipment. I do know they need to be replaced from time to time. I will have to confirm with PM assembly but I think they were marking the inspection cover with a letter stamp to indicate than an anode has been installed on a tank. I will check in to that and get back to you. I also know that corrosion issues varies greatly across the world depending on the water being used, I had a customer using reclaimed water from a batch plant that was causing a lot of corrosion in his tank beyond just normal city water.

Hey Travelteck , since you know Putz and i know Schwings in our comparative fields.

Do you find any serious problems with rust in any water filled out riggers from Putz ? I know I have found several that were beyond serious to almost catastrophic in nature with several differant Schwing model pumps.

 Im not really sold on zink anodes to keep metal from rusting, it does help the longevity of a product but it certainly has it limitations, as h20 and oxygen are natures way of breaking done certain metals.

I guess i just feel strongly that no structural component should be used as a water tank, (a hyd. holding tank is ok) because it does not cause corrosion, but nothing that holds water or any similiar product.

We use to change anodes on offshore oil rigs.No anodes,the rig will rot,quickly.As far as the engineering goes,there are many things that can be changed,but only someone who has spent alot of time crawling around these rigs would know about.

Yea bisley, seawater is a differant ball game vs fresh water corrosion issues.

That had to be an interesting job for you , why did you leave that field to pump crete ? I almost ended up working the alaskan oil field years ago myself doing fabrication/welding work, but there is something unnerving when they told me I was stuck on a derreck hundreds of miles from anywhere for months at a time. LOL

same stuff-different day

 Concord & Alliance both used a spray on type of liner on the interior of the rear outriggers that carry water. I'm not sure about Alliance but the stuff Concord uses doesn't last long before it starts to rust.

 After seeing how much rust comes out of an outrigger that holds water I started worrying about it too.

 A couple/few times a year I float a gallon or two of hyd. oil on top of the water then crack the valve to let it drain real slow. The oil floats on top of the water and coats the interior walls of the tank as the water level drops.

 I got the idea when a submersible style pump motor leaked oil into the water tank. After fixing the problem I noticed a lot less rust when I drained it. So I've been doing it ever since. The thicker the oil the better it works!  

 I've always thought that a spray on or roll on type of bed liner would work well.

 Seeing the inside of an outrigger that holds water after 3 or 4 years is scary! I cant imagine what 10+ years looks like!!!

If you use anodes you need magneseum ones[ zinc and alum. are more for salt] but wee and city water is different than river or city water.I have seen marine max tech with meter on boat that were eating anodes in a very short time due to i think they call it a free charge that travel thru out the boat  when on shore power. Would the block heater affect them?

i think the factory should coat them before sealing them up

Don't forget the 43& 50 60s that have tanks that are part of the turret sub frame. Why not a rubber bladder like a fuel cell ! With weep holes in the out riggers,and a way to change them.

 Well there is reall no reason to not have them coated well before they leave the factory. There are many good materials out now that bond fully with metals. The electro-coatings are one good example. You dip the parts to be coated and, every bit is sealed. This should be especially true with pumps considering their costs to the customers. I see that our 39M has a plastic tank but, it has no capacity and, we had to add a nice aluminum mixer tank to it. This is one of those things about the manufacturers that has always bothered me. For what they charge simple things such as this sould never have been a problem.

Mothy and Justapumper, from what I have seen the factory DOES coat them with a rust preventative at the factory,but have had some problems with that material flaking off or slowly being removed from use.

 Yes Inspector this is true of sprayed on coatings. But eltrostatic coatings are fully bonded to the substrate. ANd evey metal water tank I have seen is not coated inside. The newer polymers do bond much better.

Hi guys we use an aquatic oil that is used for an admixture to put in your water tank we use 1 litre mixed in water tank on a sat arvo and it spends the weekend coating the tank works great and stops the rust

I got an idea !Just spray the inside of your water tank with Line x bedliner !I saw a guy that work for them who painted his complete truck with it.