has anybody ever had a problem with pushing a mix because your cutting ring is too tight ive had problems with it being to lose but not to tight?

not sure what kind of pump you've got, but I know on my schwing rock valve the cutting ring pressure is a senstive setting.  Getting it to tight makes it so the rock valve hydraulics have trouble overcoming the friction of the cutting ring contacting the spectacle plate.  Your owners/repair book should have either a specific torque rating for the keeper nut on the s-tube shaft behind the hopper, or a specific measurement( usually from the cutting ring surface the s-tube itself) so you know you're in the right spot.  If the tube's not wanting to swing, she's not gonna want to pump.

Stink (nice handle, BTW) runs a CIFA. I figured that out from his die-cast pump thread. So it's like EVERY other pump out there EXCEPT a Schwing

Yes the putz, It might shift in the yard after you adjust it,but if you get it to tight when the mud gets in the hopper it won't shift all the way.After i adjust it in the yard i have the wrench handy just in case on the next job.

Rusty r u talking about backing off the shaft bolt?

The cutting ring on a schwing has no adjustment. As long as the rock valve is cleaned out where the pressure spring sits and all other parts are cleaned you should be fine. The only adjustment you have is the kidney seal. I just tigthen the flange and back it off one bolt hole. No help on the putz I have never ran one.

 Yes

Ther are two ways you can play that card. 1 is by losing the back nut on the valve a quarter two a half turn which loosens the presure on the cutting ring. The cutting ring has a spring behind it and to tight on the back nut will suck it up to close to the spectacle plate. The gap between the cutting ring and the valve can be messure with a 7018 welding rod( no flux on it). Its like an 1/16 -1/8 of an inch. there should be no gap between the cutting ring and the back of the hopper or you will lose all you cream out of your strokes and send a slug into your boom. 2 you can also tighten the accorn nut a litlle bt remember to tight and  you will have the same problem a in the back f the hopper. Just bring the necessary tools to the job with you so when you get the wait of the mud on top of the valve and its still struggling losin the back nut a little half trn or 1/4 turns at a time until the valve is shifting easier and shifting on its own. Remember you can use you hardstroke lever but its only designed to get you through a bad load or two anything more a your putting a lot of pressure on your componets. Good luck and remember pumps are like 3yr olds, turn your back on them and they will get into trouble everytime.

i was just curious about y you would back off the bolt unless you don't know about keeping the baring clean and greased. i have found a few cases ware operators don't even know about this issue let alone keeping it greased. Furthermore the big O ring staring you in the face once the transition is open needs to be taken out and cleaned after every poor in my opinion. I agree as a last resort backing off the bolt a bit is a way to keep the poor going if you ABSOLUTELY have to.