Cooper | 11-29-2010 | comment profile send pm notify |
Hey guys, I run a schwing 750-18x trailer pump. I was wondering if any of you have some advice on changing my cutting ring and mudd cups? Easy job? Any help would be great. Thanks |
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gboom | 11-29-2010 | reply profile send pm notify |
Schwing has very detailed manuals on how to do all that, give them a call |
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b-alto | 11-30-2010 | reply profile send pm notify |
Yeah its a piece of cake. Just take the bolts loose on the back plate on the back of the hopper,pry the plate back a half inch or so. lean in and remove the cutting ring and pressure spring rubber. clean grove replace the rubber and new ring. Tighten the rear bolts up and your done. Mud cups are done from inside of water box not hard to do. |
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Cooper | 12-01-2010 | reply profile send pm notify |
b-alto, are you talking about the 4 bolts that hold the outlet on the back of the hopper? Do I need to do anything to the tension bolt? Please let me know. I just ordered a schwing manual that I am hoping explains it or shows pictures. Thanks for the help. |
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pumpjockey | 12-01-2010 | reply profile send pm notify |
You'll want to take the top part of the hopper off first. then unbolt the bolts on the outside edge of the back plate. If you have a couple longer bolts available to put in the to 2 then you can slide the plate back. You have to undo the pitman arm on the 'firewall' side to let the rock slide back along with the back plate. You should be able to get enough room to work on the front of the rock valve. When re-assembling, grease the hell out of anything that might get crudded up with grout, it will make things easier in the future. |
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pumpjockey | 12-01-2010 | reply profile send pm notify |
Anybody who has a Schwing pump should register for an account at this site: http://www.schwingservice.com/user/login.php
It has all the service bulletins pertaining to Schwing pumps.
It will take a day or 2 to have the administrator activate you account. There is a TON of reading and good information there. |
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jonno | 12-03-2010 | reply profile send pm notify |
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jonno | 12-03-2010 | reply profile send pm notify |
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jonno | 12-03-2010 | reply profile send pm notify |
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jonno | 12-03-2010 | reply profile send pm notify |
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jonno | 12-03-2010 | reply profile send pm notify |
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jonno | 12-03-2010 | reply profile send pm notify |
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jonno | 12-03-2010 | reply profile send pm notify |
I'm pretty sure B-alto and pumpjockey had it covered in the description. Just thought i'd add a few photos. |
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b-alto | 12-03-2010 | reply profile send pm notify |
Sorry i didn't get back earlier i've been busy. But Nice photos Jonno.
Jonno is replacing the kidney seal also in that case you need the long bolts. I just did the cutting ring and pressure spring in that case you only need an inch of clearance. One thing to note is the importance of the rubber pressure spring make sure you clean the groove and replace it. Also the rear nut on the swing shaft don't remove it to do the cutting ring it will pull the rock valve back with the plate for you. Taking off the top hopper is easy and helpful. |
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Justapumper | 12-04-2010 | reply profile send pm notify |
Yeah b-alto mentioned the very important part don not take the rear bolt all the way out of the shift valve. Personally I like to replace the kidney seal with the new cutting ring and spring. The mudcups are more of a pain in trailer pumps to me than the boompumps. I have a piece of advice, take the cooling fan off. You may be tempted to try and do it from one side but dont, it will take twice as long. |