I run an '07 Putz, 36 meter and have recently developed a hydraulic leak around the manual valve bank for the boom controls. It appears to be coming from either the slew or the main boom spool block. The blocks look like they can be removed by the four allen bolts holding them in place, what I don't know is that if I remove these four bolts if anything is spring loaded or pressurized in behind them. Our mechanic and I have looked for breakdowns or any diagrams showing this but so far have come up empty. Any insight or help would be appreciated. Also a note the hydraulic and boom filters have been recently replaced and the oil changed.

Thanks.

                 You should see it in your parts book.It's just the O rings leaking,they do that.Pressure wash the blocks first get rid of the dirt.Put a cach pan under it and start unbolting.Have O rings handy.Put back together.

 It's a very common thing with most pumps. To common, it's to bad all the manufacter's can't correct it.

With the boom folded up and in the cradle,Place a shop vac on top of the A section,Remove the hydraulic filler cap,With duct tape,tape the suction hose from the shop vac to the hydraulic filler pipe. Turn on the shop vac then you can remove the valve to replace the O rings without loosing to much oil. The shop vac must be higher then the hydraulic tank so that you do not suck the oil out.

DNO: i have yet to find a piece of heavy equipment, that does not have hydraulic leaks; o-ring are flattened over time and get brittle, that's why there are leaks. Slinger: when you take the valve apart, disconnect the tank line and plug it so the tank wont run empty (or tie it up so the end of the hose is higher than the oil level in the tank), you will still have some oil dripping, but you won't burn up your vacuum

we always hook a vacuum up have been for 15 years still using the same vacuum, never burnt one up , it will probably take a shit tomorrow now that I am bragging on it.

Thanks for the feedback guys. Had a feeling an o-ring was involved, just wasn't sure if anything was spring loaded in behind or not or any other wonderful surprise. Sounds like a pretty quick fix. Thanks again.

The leak is usually a blanking plug on the side of the valve. Replace o-ring, easy fix.

The advice has been good and I would like to also add a little more.

The Vacuum will help a lot it keeps the oil leakage down but also helps to keep the oil flow from washing the o-rings out when you reinstall the block.

Make sure you replace ALL the o-rings especially the ones on the side of the block, Just make sure everything is Clean,Clean,Clean, Dirt entering the system is a lot of problems latter. Lots of Brake cleaner. Also make sure you find ALL the old o-rings, they stick to the base or the valve and can fall into larger ports.

 I do advise to use Factory o-rings, they are of the correct Durometer “hardness”  to handle the heat and pressure, old o-rings are also a problem.

Next is this the 4 bolts are to be Torqued to 22 nm or just over 16 Ft Lbs, Don’t over Torque, the o-rings wear out it isn’t from loose bolts, over torque can lead to sticking valve operation.

I hope this helps with all the other posts.

And a little more.

Use of a vacuum cleaner can not be stressed enough.  It keeps the oil from filling the new o-rings when you bolt the valves down.  Just make sure you remove all the old rings before you hook up the vacuum. 

If the o-rings are full, when you bolt the valve down, the o-ring will compress but the oil won't.  You have then created a "mini pump" that can rupture the new o-ring.

Some ports, like cylinder work ports, might not be affected by the vacuum; the cylinder hoses continue to drain.  Just before you bolt the valve down, use a syringe to empty these ports.

Nobody likes to do this stuff twice.