Icf homes have been trying to catch on in our area but are these homes really practical as compared to stick built homes.I know there is a problem with moisture control since very little air moves through such a tight structure.Also electricians,plumbers,sheetrock people,all seem to have more trouble in there work because of the absensce of "hollow" walls.I know the walls are fairly easy to set up and all that is needed is one experienced carpenter who can plumb and line the walls,and also know where to brace these walls so when poured they will not self-degenerate.Since this site has some of the most experienced operators and managers in the world,what does everyone think about the feasability and cost effectivness of an icf structure?Having poured about 25 of these structures,never an easy task,what can be done to make the job go smoother,i.e.,mix design as in chemical additives to give mix more flowability,and discharge hose design where as to give an even,consistent,but low pressure flow of material.Any help would be appreciated.Is there a boom pump manufactured with smaller material cylinders that is rated at say,50-60 yph,?as this machine would be more condusive to pouring icf walls.

I have always had luck by hanging two 90's then a 5 to 4 reducer and then a 4 to 3 reducer and a small 3 " hose off that. The weight is almost that of a 5 " hose . However the drawback is carrying enough slings to attach eveything to the boom. Run on low volume control at high RPM. If the mix is good (meaning a 6 sack or better) it usually flows smooth/ slow/ and consistent.

I used a 5 to a 4 and the guys made a funnel that they moved along the top

I reduce down to 4",weld a piece of 4" muffle tubing to the end of the reducer. weld a bunch of dimples on the muffler tubing and then slide a 10' section of blue water hose onto the muffler tubing. Use 3 hose clamps hold it together. It's very low pressure (PAY ATTENTION) When swinging back and forth on the job just fold the end over and wire it up. No mess!

I can hear everybody cringe, but that stuff works great. I use it on alot different stuff, walls, sonotubes, etc. A hero for not making a giant mess.

They're not dangerous because they wont build a whole lot of pressure. If they blow apart it justs puts a hole in it. Replace and keep on going. If you watch what your doing, it will last 6-700 yds.

Icf is by far the best way of building in our area. With our climate it is the most energy efficient way of construction but not the most economical. A pump mix design of 25MPA 3/8 pea stone is almost $200.00 per meter so as a pump operator and installers of ICF slow is the way to go. I usually pump slow at a 5"to 6" slump and always use a 5"to3" reducing hose. Also a air cut-off is a must as I will always keep an eye open for problems that might occur and as you all know once the concrete is at the point of no return higher slump concrete will flow down the pipes and if there is a problem with that area and the pump opertor can't stop the flow kwickly and a blowout happens, they are always kwick to blame the operator for there bad block stacking. I wont pump IcF any other way.

I do it just like Russ said.  Play with the RPM's.  I don't go full RPM.  I use a putz pour pin on the end of the 3" hose.  If you have to stop, make sure the hoseman knows to stop you in ample time so the mud doesn't run for ever and make a mess.  If you have to move, yes crimp that hose over to stop the flow.  I Did a 125 yarder (warehouse) recently, went real smooth.

Jdza, like to see a photo of that.  :-)

i have pour alot of icf homes but with line pumps and 2 in hose. they all went real well as long as they were braced correctly.

but i have poured alot of formed walls with a 3'' tip hose. it works real good but the reducers are a pain

i have pour alot of icf homes but with line pumps and 2 in hose. they all went real well as long as they were braced correctly.

but i have poured alot of formed walls with a 3'' tip hose. it works real good but the reducers are a pain

Bisley57,

Ever try the CF Ruff Neck Reducing hose?  If you're using a boom for these pours, you should give one a try.  They're available in 5 to 3 (actually 4-1/2 to 3 hose reduction) & everone that's used one I've talked too really think it's the answer.

Questions call me.

866-652-7810

Tom Johnston

I run a 42m schwing i use a metric 5 to 3 straight reducer right off the tip 90 then about an 8ft section of 3' hose always works for me , but like russ said low rpm's if you are using a boom.

Ever try the CF Ruff Neck Reducing hose? Yes that is all my company uses 5 to 4 they are a wonder and finishers love them. just be careful bringing your spoung back or you will be sorry.

i have used a 5 to 3 reducing hose or what we called a trimming hose witch is a 4 inch fitting that clamps to your reducer and like a collapsable water hose on the other. not made for icfs but worked great for jumping window cause hoseman can pintch off on jump. got to pump slow of coruse