When you line pump and reduce down to a 3" hose off the end of your boom. Whats the best angle of boom to use? I seem to be getting a rock pile plug in the reducer at the end of the boom (PITA). I'm thinking it would be better not to be in a "A" frame position. Because all the mud drops so far and when you stop and wait it dries out. if you wait on a load it might leave you with a rock pile plug. Oh and also when you fix the plug it leaves a huge mess from the vertical pipe.               Any good tips?

Here's a photo for your crtiquing enjoyment:)

If you set the boom to 1-2 up, 3 straight down, and 4 angled as high as it will go it it may reduce the head pressure on the pipe

On the pumps I operate, we have Air Bags / remote switch that we can engage the air bag when stopped pumping. It pinches the end hose off and holds the concrete from moving (keeping the boom full).

When we restart, you release the air bag and start pumping.

The only time I've ever had reducer plugs on restart are when my gaskets were smoked on the boom, letting the water push out. You checked your tip elbow gasket or noticed any grout leaking on the boom lately? Might be worth it for you to check for grout trails next time you get a chance.

Also, I have had plugs when the kidney seal or cutting ring is going bad. It squeezes the water out of the rock valve and into the hopper as your pumping so you get a big clump of concrete in the rock. After pumping a bit, the big clump breaks off and can cause you to plug.

When I pumped in that configuration, sometimes it would plug, sometimes not, just differences in the mix - sometimes load-to-load.  More often than not, if I could, I'd have 1 and 2 flat, 3 angled down and 4 horizontal, either forwards if the 4th will go above horizontal or backwards depending on the room available and the site layout, or 4 even upwards a bit even, to slow the free-flow of the mud.  I usually liked to give a forward stoke or partial stroke every couple minutes during a break in pumping.

The worst was during the winter, sometimes the tip elbows and reducer would cool too much and the grout would freeze, then when pumping resumed, the icy grout would break free and plug the reducer.

....but,sometimes space is limited,so you don't always have a choice of boom position....

Get them to fold the hose over while you wait that should help 

One major problem in this position is if your getting bad loads and plugging there is a lot of mud on the ground when your done fixing. Tomorrow I'm at the same job, will try to angle 4th up? It's is where a Z boom might be worth it..

Your slump and concrete mix design as well as the boom postion have alot to do with it. Kinking the end of the hose does help as long as it is not to cold out that the concrete starts to freeze in the reducer. I only use 3.5 inch hose now because of all the plug problems.   

Brian, just try something different boom position, etc.... you'll find out what might help.  Good call on the Kidney and Cutting Ring losing cream too.  A little bit stiffer slump may help too.  If you're catching up to the finishers and having to wait on trucks, maybe pump a little slower.  Sometimes finishers catch you pumping slower, and they don't like that, they'd rather have the breaks..... in that case, I'd drop a gear or 2 and have the engine screaming and show them the volume control cranked up to 7 or 8 and they'd back off.  ;~)

I would also try to get the last section a bit more flat. I always give 2 strokes revers when I have to wait a while. Takes the pressure off the hose. And we always kink the end of the line so concrete won't run out. It avoids seperation. I would not close the airbag when waiting. It gives more chance on seperation. It is handy though to stop your boom from emptying on the pavement. If you don't have a airbag you could try to kink the endhose with the boom but that might dammage the inner structure of the endhose and make it weaker.. 

I see you have your reducers hanging up to.. It would already help much if you could lay them flat on the ground. Thats whats causing your problems. Specialy if you don't kink the end of the line straight after you stop..

The wetter the concrete the bigger your problems will be in this situation.. The cream will run through the reducers but the rock will hang there and gather a nice plugg...

I use to clog every time priming through the boom into line, GRRRR! Now I just use three bags of Portland and it’s the cats meow….

How come your just not using your schwing?T

Hey guys. Sorry i didn't respond i was at a weekend hockey tournament for my 13 year old (sections, year end. good time!) but any way. Friday i pumped 50 yds did a gym floor. I never plug on prime, i like to prime the boom fully then dump slurry in the hose and push it through, no problem. The day went as...  -11F 630 AM I show up on the job, OH BOY :) But i did waite till 9 for mud because the lazer screed needed time to thaw out. I primed out no problems pumped half a load suppose to be a 4.5" slump tested at 3.. NO prob.. I did plug up after waiting to add water then twice more on # 3 truck because of finn fish. Lesson learned is next time i'll bring some chain link fence for the hopper grate. Sucks to take the blame for bad mud, which i did.. Terry my line pump is not strong enough for bull shit comcercial mud. Too rocky.

Can you get them to slick pack their loads with pumping aid or are they to cheap for that? Sometimes this helps 

Pumping aid slick pack is a good idea, but my slick pac wouldn't pass the inspector. I use my own concrete 3/4 minus mix design on residential it pumps great. 

I have no problem kinking a hose to break a pipe or to prevent making a mess,but,DO NOT leave the hose kinked,The concrete will "pack" before the kink and WILL cause a dangerous situation,i.e. hose whip....In a situation where you are hooked in to a pipeline,keep the mud moving ,reverse, forward,keep it alive,but do not leave a hose kinked