I operate a 2007 36m Putz mounted on a Mack and have a situation for anyone to answer.

1. Set up and start pumping and after about 3 yards the contractor wanted more water so I hit my horn button on my remote to get the driver's attention and everything goes dead. I mean the remote loses signal, the accumulator dumps and the truck slows to a bare idle.

2.I turned my remote off for a few seconds then tried to liven up the remote again but nothing happened.

3. After resetting all my E-stops and hopper grate switch I tried once more and still nothing.

4. Another person who is familiar with pumps showed up to help me and we discovered that the remote was livening up the system and repressurizing the accumulator except the horn function on the remote or on the truck itself would  not work and we could not idle the truck up from the remote or the operator box at the back of the truck.

5. We reset the remote and as I sat in the cab with my foot on the throttle we discovered I had a full functioning pump with all pump and boom controls from my remote just no throttle control. Even the lights inside the panel were displaying what they would as if there was no problems.

6. I ended up finishing the job with a stick of wood jammed between my throttle and dash to keep my revs up around the 1700 mark ( any lower and the pump would just cut out under the strain of the hydraulics).

If anyone is familiar with this or has heard of this problem any insight would be a greatly appreciated. The guy that helped me suggested it was Mack related and not Putz related. Not sure if it makes a difference but my cruise worked both on the way there and the trip home.

We tried this with the remote, the hard wire and with just the truck controls itself and all had the same results.

Thank you

Have you tried the hand brake? If it is engaged at all it will allow the e-stop to clear, but the throttle control will not work.

No answer for you, but if your box is live, and the lights are on on the cruise control, try engaging the cruise, then push the accel rocker switch. You might get at least a cruising speed, without the pedal stick, and it should sense the hydraulic load and stay at a steady speed. Try that tomorrow, when you're not having the problem, and it can help you narrow down where the problem lies. Just engage the box and try to raise the engine speed with the cruise rocker.

Also check the whisker switch on the clutch pedal, it should be on top of the steel tab on the clutch pedal, it seems crazy but I had it "walk" off of the tab on the pedal in the middle of a job once, I had all functions on the remote except for throttle.

there is a relay that will cause this and being I am on vacation, call putz they will help you I had this same problem and it was a relay fault,at first they will tell you its a mack problem its not its a relay,is there cruise control ? if so you can use it and leave the wood at home.

I checked the micro switch at the clutch pedal and it is where it belongs and my cruise only works when the pump is not engaged. Hopefully Putzmeister opens early because I have a busy day planned for tomorrow....well had.

Had the same problem in a 04 putz. It was just a blown fuse on the pump side nothin to with the truck

Look at the electrical schematics that came with the pump should be in the cabinet with all the fuses it will lead you right to the problem. its been a while so I don't really remember exactly which one it is.

Ive had the same problem a few times With my 40 m and it has always been the whisker switch,  But i took a brand new putz line pump out for it's maidin voyage and had the relay go tits up within the first 30 yards.  (plugged into a placing boom non the less.  Sucked!)  Good luck slinger.  May the force be with you.

disconnect horn wire at horn is shorted out

I had the same thing happen to me, if you fire it up and the brake lights dont turn off after the air is up to pressure, and you dont have cruse control then its your BRAKE SWITCH.

Ya I forgot to say that the horn shorting is what was blowing the fuse. I believe it was a 25 amp fuse maybe a 15

Thanks for all the help, I will let you know how I made out.

you've blown a fuse on the mother board located in the control box.open the control panel and loate the fuses ,should be about in the right middle side of the box.with the pto engaged and power on,you'll see a red led next to one of the fuses lit up,this means the fuse is blown.replace it with the same size fuse,no bigger or you could possibly damage the motherboard.once this is done locate the horn,which will be under the drivers side fender well area.usually located on the cover plate behind the step.Mack runs the wire thru a loop or two.usually the wire is worn in these loops or you could possibly have the horn full of water or mud and this will also short out the circuit.

Ya that's the one pooh. That same thing happened to me at the beginning of a 400 yrd pour with the 31z I used to run.

 Did you check your throttle linkage. If it is like the Schwing at all then the stop can loosen at the linkage and, slip. I had that happen once, I would look at the throttle blocak and, see it pulling back and was getting nothing. And sure enough it was the block at the end was just loose enough. Sometimes things are really basic and, stupid. I havent worked on a Putz for afew years so I dont remember their setup.

Our mechanic looked at it today while I was sent to haul asphalt. He called me around 2:30 and said it was fixed and that I had blown a fuse, but he wouldn't tell me which one or what it was for. By the time I got back to the shop he had gone home for the day. I didn't think it was a fuse at first because no little red light was lit up on the fuse board inside the main electrical box. I will hopefully find out tomorrow exactly what he did and see if the horn has a short in it or not. It had a 10 amp fuse in it and he said he replaced it with a 15 amp.

Slinger if that fuse was in the Putz side of the wiring don't run the pump until the fuse is changed back to a 10 amp fuse.If you do, you're risking a fire in the mother board. Never up size the fuse to fix the problem.

as one of my friends reminded me, the fuse that you're looking for will be in the module 14 card,which is located in the lower right side corner of your control panel.it's mounted on the side of the box and is orange in color.there will be a 10amp fuse there.donot replace it with a higher amp fuse because it could possibly damage the motherboard which all the modules,plug ins and fuses are mounted to.like I said before,look at the horn location for bare wire or a faulty horn. fuses generally don't blow unless there is a problem.it's very important that you locate your problem source and don't ignore it,because it could lead to bigger issues later or a failure at the worst time.any questions drop me a line. 

Well poohbear you are correct. That is exactly the fuse that had blown. After going through 3 more fuses found out which horn was causing the problem. I disconnected it and didn't have any more problems. I just have to wait for a new horn to replace the busted one. We replaced the fuse with a breaker instead ( cheaper than buying fuses I guess ). Thank you for the help.

Had the exact same problem, had the contractor hold down the throttle for me. replaced a 10 amp fuse in electrical box a couple times then unplugged my horn. no more problems after that, replaced my horn when i got to the shop.

the led light for a blown fuse will not light until you activate the function that is on that circuit, so hold the horn on or throttle, then look at the fuse panel for the led light, if it blown it will light up.