I think they offer a RZ, where the first two sections roll, and the tip and 3rd do the Z action.

They have and EZ 31 meter also one section extends.

Schwing is trying to break into the Z fold game but they do not offer anything that even compares to the true Z fold that Putz and some other guys have in my opinion. The 31ez is ok but the 52RZ they have and the 36 they offer just dont compaare. They have their advantages but will never compete with the Putz 5 section Z's such as the 47's and up...

Powercrete in Australia built a 46m 6 rz with an Antonelli boom, very good for inside work from what i hear!

Schwings motto seems to be "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" There is a lot of stuff that they should come out with and update, but they just don't.

Schwing came out with a new 28 recently that is a 4 section RZ fold style, I personally like the 31 EZ. Hope I get the chance to run one in my lifetime.

I don't think that should be a problem Mr perkinson.. Black and white? 3 section? That is getting quite outdated isn't it? Your next machine must be a proportional one.. (Or do you live in Africa ;-)

is it the one onn the frieghtliner chasis?

No. Not 1 up 2 down. I'd defenetely go for the 2 'slightly' up and the last one straight down. You know the trick is to go up and as soon as you go down you should go well down. So that the crete falls through the pipes rather than slides through. Thats the trick. A 4 or even 5 section boom can also be primed all sections upwards and only the last one down. What you discribed is just what you should avoid...

In the small booms up to 31m the Schwing RZ is far better than the strait Z of Putz. The 31/5 of Putz is the only one that comes close, but the 31 Schwing is less mind breaking. I hope one time I have the chance to try the 36sx of schwing to compare it whit the 36Z that I operate at this time.

And a bout priming why not just flat out. 9 of the 10 times you can get away whit it.

That machine will generate a good income.Splurg on a boom inspection,inspector will help you out alot.

Why waste the contractors money buying grout, two 5 gallon bucket' of Bentonite mixed like pancake batter added at the priming port with a little water in you hopper about 1/2 way on the barrels have the mixer start dumping on top of your S-tube put two sponges in ,one ahead of the bentonite and one in the s-tube then go for it.

P.S.  what I was talking about was of course a water prime with hanging boom...

yep black and white sucks i had the 32 m run great one day the next couldn't run smooth to save my life!!!

I was talking flatout whit just water

Superdoffer.. Do you mean flat out with only water when you have a line conected or are you talking just priming a hanging boom? If it only the hanging boom than I'd rather say 999 out of 1000 times it works.. But if you are talking priming a long line.... I don't think i'll ever try priming that just flat out with water. We only use 2,5'' and 3'' line so that would be madness.. But even with 4'' I am a bit sceptic  But I know you have a lot of line jobs and not the best concrete in the world eighter so you probably know what your talking about.. Just be carefull

Dipstick; If the contractor have no place to get rid of the grout. You have to think about an other solution. We just start whit a load of pea gravel, and two bucket’s water in the prime port, and prime true the 4” steel line. Remember we prime to slick the line, to much water and you rock pack. To less water and you dry pack. Btw you must remember we have those HD quick release clamps on the line. So if we plug its not such a big deal.

Yes, Now I remember those clambs again.. And now I also remember the dutch grout again. That one you have to throw away.. So I understand you strategy..

The grout here is a different type which has the same quality as the actual concrete. So we don't have to dump it. Its only about 20 dollars per m3 more expensive than the normal concrete and is so stiff that you can load a mixer with normal concrete first and then stop the mixer and put the grout on top of the normal concrete. The mixer has to drive without mixing. When he arrives he fills up your hopper with the grout and then gives the rest of the crete a good mixing.. Its a great system and it will cost the customer only the 10/20 dollars extra..(depending on how much grout) Nothing can beat that. Not even a few bags of cement and the time used to mix those. :-)

This is off topic but you must have alot of bouncy, noisy mixers driving around then Dipstick. They keep the drum spinning as they drive not only to mix the concrete but also to keep from creating flat spots on the rollers... Thats why they are even spinning while driving empty.