We bought a used 36m putz an '05 and I want to check pipe thickness. Can anyone tell me what the range is?

You have to figure out what pipe it is, call the manufacturer and ask the specs when it's new, then measure and see where you're at.  If you got dual wall you need a gauge to measure the inner thickness, esser sells them for about $400, and they're made by Kroeplin, but I can't find a seller on the internet.

I dont know the specs but this high tech tool is never wrong: http://comps.fotosearch.com/comp/FSA/FSA049/sledgehammer_~x29591070.jpg

Tap on it with a hammer if it has a high pitch ring its good. If has a doink sound its worn out.

Most likely a twin wall of some nature,but not wrote in stone.Check the inlet/outlet sides for wear,wished I could remember what we used as a guide.

bout crapped myself zuat150 when  clicked that link. pretty funny stuff :)

Inside diamater brake gauge and a digital caliper would work just fine.

dual wall for obvious reasons will be harder to test. CP1 gave some good advice along with my2cents and his inside guage testing.The only bad thing with a digital dial indictor as suggested , would only give you a thickness reading close to the end of the pipe due to its working range.

After you call the manufacture and get the correct thickness and also find out if it is single or dual wall, then you will know for sure how much pipe thickness is left and weather it needs to be changed out.

For single walled pipes I use something like this for testing thickness http://www.reliabilitydirectstore.com/product-p/rdi-ar850-op.htm

Boom, for the single wall I think I would stick with zuat150, much cheaper unless I was going vertical and adding system if you are that worried about your system.

LOL 2cents, I actually googled "zuat150" hahaha

For some reason I thought it was a techy tool for checking pipes till I realized it was a username LOL   But yea a hammer is a good tool to use . haha

give me a call ill hook you up

 I agree it depends on the style and brand of pipe.

 There are some problem areas that tend to wear faster than the rest of the system on that kind of boom. I've had problems in the past with the compression side (bottom) of the pass over pipe on the 3rd.

 I've seen both ends of that pipe blow more than any any others on that kind of boom. The worst part is it usually blows right where the bracket holds the pipe making it really hard to patch!

 As far as "dinging" pipe goes it's like tuning a musical instrument...

 If it dings to the key of D, that's good pipe, Key of A, keep your finger on the trigger (off switch). Key of E, swap it out or stock up on ductape! HAHaha...