Any methods of pre-heating of components and oil would be appreciated.How does one warm up a system whether it be open or closed loop to optimum operating temperature without damaging hydraulic components?Also looking to purchase filter cart for hydraulic oil,any ideas?

The fastes way to heat the oil on a Putz is to have the switch on the remote on suportleg , not the boom when you wait for the first load....

chek this page...

http://www.calix.se/heavy/index.asp?lang=UK

I show up early on the job and do some "boom excersizes"  just to warm up the oil a bit, it is really slow at first but gets better as you move it around.  Of course adjust your auger shut off valve so it is restricting it good and that helps warm it up.  I have pumped when it is about 20F out or maybe sightly less with no trouble.  Will they bring mud if it is much colder?? (maybe inside, whole different scenario.)  I have often thought of those big magnetic oil pan heaters for a regular car, why not stick one of them babies on the bottom of your hydro tank?

I agree with Vasa! In colder temps I engage the pump and put it in out rigger mode. It is amazing to he how quickly you can feel the filters actually giving off heat!

i was taught when i arrive at my job, turn auger on and close valve that supplies the hydraulic oil to auger motor, seems to work just fine

i know how to cool off a hydraulic system, last summer I installed a heat exchanger and a 12 volt water pump about a year and a half ago I built a 250 gallon water tank, that gave me enough excess water to cool my hydraulic fluid and extra bit, this is not something I had to do but something I felt that would help make pumps and fluid  last longer now I can keep my oil around 150 degrees at the hottest, this past winter I just removed the hose's and the pump so it wouldn't freeze, my tank has a water heater elliment and a thermostat set at 100 degrees sure is nice to wash out with warm water when it cold.

if you are running a machine with an accumalator then that runs at 190/220 bar which in its self will warm the hydraulics up. On a putz we was always taught to leave the pump cycling on tick over once set up, (but not on a schwing because of the kidney seal).

if you leave the boom/leg circuit switched on with cold oil this can shorten the life of the boom hydraulic pump,if the oil is that cold then you need a preheater in the tank, or change the oil for a different grade.

Anyone turn the valve on a Schwing and pressure it out for a while? heard that warms up the oil

They learn it at the Putmeisteracademy that You should have the switch  on suportleg to heat the oil , and We pump down to -20 , to -25 cellsius , and when the oil is warm You start to move the boom and rise the rpm...

And sometime we change the oil to 32 instead of 46....because of the cold .

typesdubs  I´ve use to do that on a Schwing I operated a 23-4 , but it sound so bad but the oil get warm quik !

If that's what they teach at putz academy, which I'm a little surprised about, then the teacher is dumb as well.  That will heat up the oil because you're going over the relief valve of the boom/outrigger circuit.  It's just like every other relief with a spring pressing on a cone plugging a port back to tank.  Think about it, the more you use the spring the more it wears.  If you need to go over a relief because it's so cold where you are, then you ought to take off the stop that makes it so that you can only move your water lever one way, and make it so that you can move your water pump lever into two positions.  Move the lever to the closed off position, and go over the relief for the agitator system to heat up the oil.  At least that relief is much less important if it fails, and the gear pump is stronger and cheaper than the boom pump.  However, as I said before, the boom pump will not get ruined because it is an open-loop pump, it will just wear out the relief quicker than if you don't use it.

cp1- yes the acc. pump has its own internal relief valve but most accumalator circuits will make up then slowly drop off  causing the pump to cut in and out therefore circulating the oil to and from 200bar  and creating heat. With the boom circuit or any circuit left at relief pessure for long periods will have a detremantal effect on the pump, its like running an engine at 2500rpm -yes its designed to do it but one running at 1000rpm will last longer.

cp-1,with these new closed circuit pumps, if the operator engages the unit in PTO but does not "boot" the machine,I am assuming the pump is not generating any charge pressure to warm any oil or hydraulic components,is this assumption correct?

cp-1,I saw on your previous post not to dead head the pistons for warm up,it seems like it puts undo pressure and wear on the system?

Bisley57, I'm sure you know this already, but I'll respond anyways, the charge pump is circulating oil at 25 or 30 bar as long as the motor is above 900 rpm (gauged by the flow of the gear pump) so even if the diff cylinders are not turned on, the charge pump is constantly circulating.  And, although they are closed loop pumps, the signal circuit, which the charge pump on the rear is used for, is open loop. 

Oh yeah, dead heading the piston is doing the same thing as putting it in outrigger mode and not using the outrigger.  See previous post.

Look, I guess what I'm saying is that if you're looking to avoid doing damage to your pumps with cold oil, then why would you put them at full pressure to heat them up quickly?  Kind of defeating the purpose aren't you?  That's why if you decide that you have to go over a relief, then use the gear pump because it's takes a lot to ruin a gear pump and it's not the end of the world if the relief in the auger system goes bad in the middle of a job.  Or just move the boom around or just idle the truck and see if the charge pump warms up the oil.

All good,now answer me this,put the truck in PTO which means disengaging the rear wheels and engaging the hydraulic pumps,on truck mounted units.Without "booting" system,by that I mean toggling switch to energize the system,is the charge pump still moving oil at 20-30 bar or is the charge pump in "nuetral"

Yes, as soon as you drop the clutch, the charge pressure will go 20 bar immediately, and if you throttle above 900 rpm, that will go to 30 bar, with the e-stop hit and everything "off".  If you have a putz schematic then follow the line ND into the manifold and you'll see how it works.

cp1 have You told the techers at Putz academey that they are dumb ? You maybe get your money back from your visit there ?

btw I have the auger on to to heat the oil too , I send 2 oilsample every year and use the oil 2-3 time longer than the recomandation is , and My last pump did not show any wear on some hydraulicpump and the pump was 10 year .

But does every one drain the hydraulictank atleast 1 time every week , mondaymorning is a goodday if the pump has stand still for some days , water is very bad for the pumps , much worse than that the oil is going over an relifvalve .

cp1 -think were both singin from the same hymn book! just the voice is different. have a nice weekend!!!!

This is a very good site about hydraulic....

http://www.hydraulicsupermarket.com/technical.html