ive got a 32m schwing and i prime up always from my hopper just with water when its off the stick, i also have a prime port too but when i prime from my hopper and i have the boom flat with a 3.5inch 10 m hose i always get the mud stuck at the hose, is there a way of just using the water in d hopper and flat boom and 10m hose on end to get the mud through succesfully

Why do you prime flat stick unless you just have to we have a 32 and I prime out in a A frame that way two sections are down hill my self I don't use a hose smaller than 5 inch, so maybe you should remove your small ass tip hose  prime out then put it back on try that and see never hurts to try. We prime with water but I put a sponge in from of the water to hold it back and I have the water about half way over the barrels.  

MAYBE if you were to pre-wet the hose, but by the time it gets that far, a lot of the paste in the initial concrete has been used up slicking up the walls, not to mention it's likely a bit segregated from direct contact with the water.

Maybe a soap and water slicked up wad of newspaper between the water and the mud?  But then you might as well mix up a slurry of portland to pancake batter consistancy, dump it in the prime port and be guaranteed a full prime.  IMHO

I prime with Mudslide through the prime port on every job, works great and saves alot of headaches. (cheap as well)

No there's not. I tried it again the other day reducing down to 2.5" though. Yeah it plugged in the elbow and reducer. No big deal but I'd rather not deal with it , so i prime the boom, dump bentonite in the hose then no problems. Unless you mix a couple buckets of masonry cement up dump them in the prime port. That would work.

slow it right down and less water, three strokes of water. i have a 42 and no dramas. 

I had a 34 meter schwing with 3.5 inch hose, I dont have a prime port, so I primed from the hopper. I filled it to were the water was half way up the pipes with a pack of pumpco prime. "A" frame the boom and reved to about 1500 to 1600 RPM and truned the volume to 7, it works every time. oh turn the pump on before the concrete hits the hopper.

thanx for the response guys , i never have a problem priming with water in the hopper when my tip section is down , its just when i really have to have the boom flat with a longer hose say inside a building or sumthing i would like to be able to prime out with water too without pluging

Use less water then you do when priming the boom in 'A'. And if you still have problems, hang the hose after you primed the boom.

don't prime flat. unless you have absolutely no chioce.

If you must prime out flat then leave it  folded in front of the cab it you are inside a building you had to have enough room to unfold so just move each section so there is some up and down buy putting a wad of wet paper or a sponge that will help hold everything together so all of the pipe gets wet  and  take your tip hose off ,wet it good then reinstall after you prime something else if you got extra hose off the last section wet that hose good after you prime your steel hook it up and push to the end then put you reducer tip hose on.

 I sometimes have to prime out flat but, it is never through that small a hose. What I find helps is when flat out, lift your 4th section above the third and, with that smal of hose slow it down when getting near the end. I also am one that will make a soapy water mix in the hopper. Dishwashing detergent suspends the fines. Also if possible throw in a bag or two of slick-pack in the first load and, add enough water to get it back to slump ususally 5 gallons per bag. Another thing I find is I set my rockvalve between the cylinders, what this does is puts all of the water first and the mud second. I sonetimes do this when I have to push dry mixes and, want to use less water.

i have never driven a schwing 32 but i drive a 32m putz as a hose truck and primarilly use the boom for most of my hose work. a few tricks i have found when priming flat is that if u can hyper-extend 4th try angling 3 down then 4 back up (doesnt have to be alot) just enough to let the mud catch up to the water and keep it wetting the whole pipe not just the bottom half. another thing is always try to keep @ least 1 hose between reducers (helps keep from plugging and if u do its alot easier to find). and finally u can use a trash bag with a few small holes in it between ur hose and reducer to help keep ur water back with the mud (GREAT for priming downhill). I use these methods daily to prime off the boom with hose as small as 2.5". Just as everyone else has been stressing though. prime slow dont get in a hurry thats where u get into trouble!

hey jiffy welcome to the site

flat out priming whit water is wat the german cal fingerspitzen geful

to mutch water and it seperate, to les and it is to dry

i always say if the contactor dont want the mes for the normal prime. they take the risk for the down time for the abnormal prime end of the story.

Does your hose have the 4-3.5 reducer built into the steel end? If so, those can be a real bitch to prime through, they really like to plug in the reducing end

stuck in the reducer of the 3.5" or the actual rubber of the hose?

HOLY CHRIST!!!!!!!   Out of all the replys only one mentioned using a priming agent. You guys are coming up with all these methods that are way more work then just throwing a bottle or a bag of primer. Why would you not use a primer. WOW!

Priming flat should be a piece of cake, compared to priming threw rubber hose. That is if your pipes are clean. Since I started using water in between two sponges the inside of my pipe is shiny clean. Makes a huge difference when priming.

HOLY CHRIST!!!!!!!   Out of all the replys only one mentioned using a priming agent. You guys are coming up with all these methods that are way more work then just throwing a bottle or a bag of primer. Why would you not use a primer. WOW!

I second that motion