Ok guys summer is here for some of us and coming for others.

Every spring and summer we at the CSG start to receive calls of pumps shutting down due to over heat.

So let’s do some PREVENTITIVE Maintenance. This also applies to the Telebelt units

Is the cooler itself clean? Dust from jobsite and blockages due to improper placements of things on the deck need to be addressed, pressure wash the radiator don’t get over zealous and blow it apart but it will handle washing with reasonable pressure, clean the dust and oil out of the elements. Make sure that air is able to flow over the cooling elements.

Where is your tarp being stored?????? Can part of it be blocking the cooler air flow?

Next try turning on the fans with the manual override switch on the Combi box, all your fans should run with the manual switch on 1 or 2 fans.

If not then it is time to start troubleshooting the system.

The most common problems are on the 12V systems the fan motor is old and drawing to many amps this will be proven by doing an amp draw test with a voltage/amp meter. On the older motors they will draw as much as 30 to 35 amps to start up when they are warm, they will blow the fuse when on the job but not in the shop. Test cool and warm. DO not over amp the fuse to “get by” Replace a worn out fan motor.

Generally on the units

24 V unit the fuses are 63F94 & 63F95    The Relays are 41K40.1 & 42K40.2

12 V units the Fuses are 1F10 & 1F11     The Relays are 5K40.1 & 5K40.2

Telebelt Unit Fuses are 1F10 & 1F11       The Relays are 3K40.1 & 3K40.2

Some Telebelt’s have 2 coolers also

Due to the many variations this is just basic info please consult your manual for the exact fuse and relay Identification on your unit.

Tip: If your cooler fans are getting older and blowing the fuse when they are hot, turn them on in the morning and leave them on all day, this will help with the start up draw, instead of letting them automatically turn themselves on and off. Yes if you move during the job and they are hot you will blow the fuse. DO NOT BE TEMPTED TO USE A BIGGER FUSE.

On the Oil cooler Inlet flange you will find the Temp probe or probe’s that will turn on and off the cooler fans automatically, this is not the probe for the Temp gauge, they are just fans auto on/off. “Temp gauge probe is in the flushing valve”. The pictures will show what they look like and where they are. There might be 1 or 2 of them depending on the unit you have.

It is easy to check them. Peel back the rubber boot. Look for the 2 wires and connectors under the boot, are they loose or corroded?  Address the issue. On the side of the probe will be a temp rating, this should match your schematic for the unit. Some units bring the fans on in sequence with these probes. To test the systems just temporally connect the 2 wires together at the probe the fans should come on.  Obviously the PTO is on.

On some of the older units early 80’s to mid 90’s the probe had 1 terminal this is a ground for the relay through the probe , removing the wire and grounding it should trigger the relay and run the fan.

On the 12 V units or older 24 V European units the terminals on the back of the fan come loose over time with age and vibration. Test the connection tighten and clean, don’t let the wires hang from the plug zip tie them up so they don’t shake and pull on the plug. Some customers have soldered a weatherproof pigtail to the terminals to help with the connection. Loose connections cause resistance and heat this alone can blow a fuse and cause an issue.

It is common for us to think “it is working and electrical I don’t want to mess with it”, this can cause you big issues in the future and most likely on the job site at the worst time, Don’t just rip and tear but investigate and learn how it works, this might help to get you started.

Did you know on a Putzmeister pump 70 % of the cooling is from the cooler 30 % is from the water box.

Take care of the cooler’s and they will take care of your pump.

When I do these posts I try to get as much as I can but I always leave something out, so If you see something I forgot jump in it TAKES A TEAM.

If you get into something you can’t manage call us at the CSG or e-mail and we would be glad to help

PMA CSG 1-800-890-0269

Look at the cooler for plugged or damaged and make sure the air can flow. Wash it

Check out the point of plug in.

Is it tight and clean.

Note newer 24V fans have smaller motor and a weather tight plug.

It is good practice to zip tie the wire so it won’t hang on the plug and wear

Some have used this kind of plug-in to help with older 12V style motor issues

This is just asking for problems, you might be surprised how often I see this kind of repairs or neglect.

These are the Thermal probes for a dual system, one with the boot peeled back and one closed. Look closely at the connection and take care of any issues, make sure to put the cover back after you fix the plugs

Located at the bottom of the cooler in the inlet line.

Remove the wires and connect them together to test the fan relay the fan should turn on.

Be aware when you do this the fan should come on, don’t be startled and hurt yourself.

Have a safe week end

thanks alot

This is great stuff. What ever putz is paying you it's not enough. It's guys like you that make a company great. Putz has done a great job and I thank them for having you be aregular poster on concrete pumping.com

I have posted this before,I installed a heat exchanger on my line pump, in the hottest part of summer my oil would get to 220 degrees, I use a 12 volt water pump with hoses hooked to my 250 gallon on board water tank,I have used it during the summer fot the last 2 years,in the fall I remove it so it want freeze up, now it never gets over 150 degrees the water will get warn in the tank, I don't see any reason a larger one could be installed on a Boom Pump or Tele-Belt, mine may have cost around 300.00 bucks theres a 12 volt switch in my control panel to start and stop it.