Anyone have a video or know of a link to a video on Schwing Rock valve. I want to pull mine and hard face it. I do have the Schwing manual but a video might make me more comfortable with it working when I put it back together. Any advice to this as well would be appricated............ 1993 Swing 32 XL 

If your are talking about how to line the the splines back up to where its in the right position, just mark the valve shaft and the switch cylinder with a sharpie. This may not be what your asking. I'm not sure.

I would also mark the shaft inside the hopper and on the bushing cap. Thats actually all you need to do if your cylinder is good and don't bleed off.

Thanks XFORCE that helps but also the procedure to remove the rock valve from the pump. Alink to a video if anyone has it would be great.

I don't know of any video buts its simple if you have a strong back, good friends, a chain, and a bobcat or a pick-up! Unscrew the shaft cap (above the transition elbow) and pull the back plate off. From there, go to the truck side of the hopper and there will be one bolt in the end of the shaft, pull it out. Make sure you put the marks at the places I described above, it will make things 10x easier when you go back together. If your rockvalve will clear the bottom of the hopper without unbolting the shaft from the valve, hook a chain in between the valve bolts and hook it to something to pull it out. (MAKE SURE TO PULL AT THE SAME ANGLE THE SHAFT IS SITTING, THIS IS WHERE A BOBCAT WOULD BE BEST AND IT WOULD HELP TO GO BACK TOGETHER)This will most likely come out very hard!! Would not hurt to have a few buddies around when you tackle this especially going back together. Being your going to be this far in, I would consider changing the O-ring's on the front side of the shaft. Before you start this project, look behind your hopper where the shaft comes through and see if there is any grout coming through, if so, you will need that bushing also. Also may consider changing your kidney seal and pressure spring while your there. By the way, not all shafts will come out with the valve still bolted to it, you will have to look. I know it sounds like a lot but its pretty self explainitory. It will take you a few hours the first time but after you see how its done, it don't take to long. If you get in a pinch and have a quick question, give me a hollar @573-216-1124 and I'll try to help.

Why dont you call Schwing USA?

Why put out a call on the web?

If you only want to reface the ROCK, you can swing up the end plate and do the hard facing from the outside.

No big deal. What*s the problem?

There is a procedure about pre-heating the base metal of the rock and letting it cool slowly to reduce the stress that welding reates.  It would be best to contact Schwing to get it straight from them.  I used to be able to access a special portion of their website that had all the technical bulletins posted on it, I foubnd it there and passed it on to the welding/machine shop that I entrusted mine too.  They did it on a Friday and it took the weekend to cool (they placed it in an insulated box and poured extremely hot sand around it.)  I had to use my leather gloves to carry it to my truck.

Here it is all welded up:

[img]http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h300/SpeedyCrete/Valve%20wear%20parts/Hard-SurfacedSwingElbow.jpg[/img]

Here's the gallery of the process:

http://s67.photobucket.com/albums/h300/SpeedyCrete/Valve%20wear%20parts/

Thanks  Pumpjocky. I didnt think about someone else doing the welding but the procedure of heating and cooling is beyond what I have available to me. Great pics too thanks.

prehest rock to 200f  before welding , do not exceed 1000f base meatal temp while welding. if you do not have a blanket to wrap it in for slow cool bury it in speedy dry. make sure you get proper hard face you need it for abrasion not impact. good luk its easy

Your welcome.  Hope the pics help show a bit of what's involved.  This was on a 1986 long rock.  I had the long bolts from Schwing for sliding the rear plate back.  I ordered them with the wear parts.  (Kidney seal, cutting ring and pressure spring)  If you notice, there was some nasty build-up within the Rock Valve - that was from the previous owner's operator.  It didn't cause any problems, but the related build-up in the lower part of the deck pipe did - it got shoock loose on the 1500 mile drive home and messed up my first prime.  Not a good experience for a newb!

I think you can return the bolts for full credit from Schwing after you've done the work (Probably let them know if that is your intention - they would likely send out a previously used set.)  Schwing will do this for many of their specialty tools.  I kept mine, they went to the next owner.   (they didn't cost too much, I think perhaps $35.00 at the time???  Also notice that I used a come-along from my boom to handle the valve.  I did have a skidsteer, but used it for handling the upper hopper.  I also had to make a new gasket for between the upper and lower hopper.  I used some rubber matting meant for used in horse trailers - it was rather soft and about 3/4 of an inch thick, I thought that some vibration would transfer from the grate vibrator to keep the sides cleaner, and it did somewhat, but not to the extent I thought it would, but a second vibrator mounted to the upper hopper would have doen the trick, with the extra isolation from the rigidity of being bolted to the lower hopper tub.

 One thing I dont think any of you mentioned is the shaft. If the shaft has a groove where the O-rings come in contact with the shaft you will have to have a machine shop weld them up, machine them down to factory specs or some of your hard work will have been wasted, or buy a new shaft for a lot of money. I know some of you mentioned marking the shaft which is a good idea, but there should be 2 there already. 2 little pin punch marks. Once you've done an ass end job a couple of times it gets real easy.