Total Yardage: 96,879 kept tract , courtesy of Pump Magic.

Usually no one runs it unless there is an emergency, when I am off, or on vacation.

I touch up the tail end about every other week,  I change all my swivel gaskets every other month, so I dont get seepage on the boom. Tip swivel gasket once a month.

OE-3

Thanks for the plug OE.

Here is the link to Pump Magic

http://www.concretepumpingsoftware.com

Thanks OE-3! That is a lot of yardage! 

op 3 do you turn the cutting ring to get that kind of yardage.

i am running a 38z putz with a 20 cell and the factory rep told me mine was ready to replace at 18000 yards. i am more familiar with schwings so any info would help.

send me a photo, if you could. why is the rep telling you it needs replacing?

OE-3

i already replaced it, the reason was the gap was getting to wide. but i am having alot of trouble since we changed it, still trying to get it right.

we are still learning the putz procedures, wish i could trade for a schwing.

Hmmmm. Well in my experience every machine seems to be different. I posted this pic a few months back, but if you look at again you can see where I hard faced the hopper. I wore right through. Different pumps do different things ,who knows? sometimes I am baffled at the things that last long on some pumps and others have problems right off the bat. I have a friend who works for a large company near by. He just recieved a new pump about 2 months ago. He hit me up on the nextel friday cause he had a hyd. leak ,turns out almost every hose fitting was loose , go figure ?

Seed , sorry correction on the yardage 86,879 type-o.not 96,879. Also I am on my third vibrator both after market after replacing the original.

OE-3

Hey OE 3:47M scw**g ,78086 yds by the computer,2nd kidneyseal, original cutting ring and pressure spring .Yea brand really does make a difference! P**z cups last longer though,I'm on my 3rd set!

What brand of vibrator are you using?

WAM makes a good one. It is not expensive and has very solid end caps that won't dent like some of them.

The way to make the electrical connections bullet proof is to run them inside hydraulic hoses and use all hyd fittings right up to the connection box on the vibrator. NO water gets inside and no power cable problems ever.

OLI Vibrator

Bldg.2, Unit 10 - 4220 Steve Reynolds Blvd. Norcross, GA 30093 U.S.A. tel: +1 / 678 / 380-6267 fax: +1 / 678 / 380-6268

Bob,

To be honest I have no clue , our shop orders them from someone locally, I will pass the info on ,and make sure we give them a try.

OE-3

 Gill,what kind of trouble are you having?Basically when you adjust your ring make sure your back gland is tight against the back of the hopper.Then adjust your ring with the nut on the back of the s-tube shaft,55 mm?,the gap between the s-tube and the back of the wear ring should be the thickness of a paint stick.Get the adjustment correct the first time because if you over tighten the ring the s-tube  will not fall back in to place properly.Make sure that the recess where the pressure spring sits is 100% clean.If the company you work for is willing to purchase a new wear ring,go for it,make sure you get a new pressure spring along with it.As far as a "gap" between the wear ring and wear plate goes,ideally,as far as the naked eye goes,there should be none.Don't forget to get the good carbide wear parts.

 In order for a vibrator to last a good many years,put it on the bottom of the grating,if the operator leaves the thing alone and doesn't attack it with a chipping gun and scaper,it should last a long time.

bis i adjusted the gap to 4 mm did 2 jobs with it about 800 yds and checked the gap it was at 7 mm. tightened it up to almost 4 mm, but then the s-tubedid not want to shift, had to loosen it up to a 41/2 mm to get it to shift right.

i'm right up the road from you guys i run the putz for boh bros

 I think what you need to do relax the whole s-tube.By that I mean pull back gland away from hopper about 1/2 inch,loosen adjustment nut on the back of the hopper,don't take it off.Move s-tube back enough to remove wear ring and pressure spring.Clean groove for pressure spring and re-install pressure spring and wear ring.Push rear  gland all the way forward,tighten allen bolts and use a cheater.Now adjust your "gap" to about a paintstick,like I said before do not over adjust ,get it to a paintstick the first trip.When installing locking plate make sure you get the nut on a flat,if it is not on a flat tighten nut,do not loosen.Where are you located in Memphis?

thanks bis i will give that a try as soon as i get a day with no mud to pump, don't know when that will be.

and my mistake i thought tou were in the south louisiana area.