We have a 1985 Schwing 36m, and I was wondering where you can adjust the slewing speed of the boom without going up on the deck and holding the manual lever control and remote at the same time.  Sounds stupid but I do this sometimes.

Sound like your valves may need rebuilding, If you are A- framed it will move slow but if you are straight out its going to move to fast, is your controls Black and White.

Yes, they are black and white, and it does move slow in the A frame position when I am getting into position to prime, Streched out or close in, its slow. When the wireless remote is hooked up its slow, but when the wire remote is on it moves faster.  We put a wireless OMNEX remote on the truck last summer. 

Not sure if this has anything to do with the situation but thought I would share. A guy up my way bought a machine off the same guy you did. He started having slewing problems. When he took it down there was a little part the size of a cigarette lighter they changed out and it was like new.

My 89 PUTZ want pump with my wireless remote hooked up everything else works normal it will stroke when nothing is in the hopper but once mud hits the S-tube it want start I am thinking that the Antena's don't match cause you can't get over 50 feet away, but my hard wired cord works just fine.

My dad purchased the remote used through CPR. What valve would I be looking for and where might it be located on the truck? I dont think its the antenna because all functions work fine except that the slewing knob from the truck to the radio control system doesnt work.

Are your manual levers on the passanger side of the truck soon as you go up on the back of the pump? Does all your other functions work fine? If your levers are there, look behind them there should be some straight head set screws in the back of them that you can adjust for hyd. pressures for certian functions. I had a 85' schwing- blk/white. Once i had a problem with my A-section lifting with my remote, but lifted fine with the lever. Behind the set screws is a small spring that has a small piston behind it. I had the spring break into and twisted its self together making it half the length. So when the remote told it to move the lever it had no spring tension/ hyd. pressure in the piston area of the control block. This took me 2 days to figure out and tones of phone calls to cpr to finally figure it out. Its just an idea but it might work. If you have some questions i might beable to help you just PM me.. I ran my schwing 3 years. So i've went throught some stuff with it. 

Could be the electric coil on on the solanoid is a bit weak and not opening the valve properly. Also the the cordless remote black and white or proportional, and a proportional remote with black and white valves can give you headaches.

If it swings good with the hardwire but slow with the wireless it sounds like a signal/reception issue? I would'nt start with adjusting any of the hand valves just yet. Pull the plug from the solinoid and meter the amps when the function's activated. Then compare the amps with the wireless and go from there. If the amps jive then move on to hyd. pressures but be sure to guage & meter the adjustments so the pressures are equal at both hyd.circuts (right/left). Too much pressure can overload the return and blow the Orings out of the valve stack! 

 Phil is right, if the unit had a proportional remote system at any time, hardwire or wireless, it could be a pulsar not fully opening the hand valve. Or could also be recieving a "snail mode" signal from the wireless... In fact, I got a sneaky suspition that 'snail/rabbit' thing might could be the problem?..  if it's equipped for it?

 That's one of things I liked about Elbas. Every function had an inline, color coded, 4 point valve to 'dial in' each function.  Coulda done without the elec.over air. over hyd. BS though.   

today is a matienance day at the shop so hopefully we get to look at this issue. Thank you everyone, I'll keep you updated.

Today we ended up running two new wires for speed 2 and 3 from the remote brain to the rear control panel. Everything works now after some overwhelming wiring and attention to detail we got it to work fine. Not only did we add the slewing speed on the remote, but also a horn. Starting to get fancy on our old iron. Thank you veryone for the help and advice.

The problem was that the radio remote harness was not wired to adjust the slewing speed so it stayed in the manual position (speed 1) while using the radio remote. The main panel was wired to operate speed 2 and 3 so all we had to do was run wires from the radio remote harness to the bar on the main panel to get these functions to work. The horn was easy because the radio remote was wired for a horn but the panel wasn't so we just wired a horn into the bar itself. Thanks Nick!!!

Nick, the first pick was taken in Dallas, TX after a long day of concrete paving with the 44M Putz, O'Brian Concrete Pumping and the second pic is the 42M Shwing that I operated out of Loveland, CO, Moats Concret Pumping