Having E-Stop Issues, Simple things to check.

This relates to Standard 12V Models as well as early European 24V units

Any component in your Control “Combi” Box should be labeled, Age and changing parts without putting the sticker on the new part can mess that up. The decal shows 10 A 17, yours might say 6 A 17 .

The first # 10 or # 6 is the page of the schematic you will find this component on so if you see a 6 go to page 6 in your schematic, this related to all the components in your Combi Box, 6F76 is the fuse for e-stop on page 6. The relay in the picture is located on Pg 10.

The A is the code for the part, A= Assembly, F=Fuse, S=switch, K=relay. Notice a German A,S,F,K are the same as English.

The Number 17 is just the assigned Number for the device, Notice 10A17 & 6A17 are the same part just different pages in the schematic.

The page # of the schematic varies with the Options a unit has, or the amount of Revisions. We can go into revisions later.

So you are having issues with e-stop A quick test will reveal why.

Look at top left and find Terminal A1 (+) Also Find A2 (-) lower right, putting a voltage tester at these 2 points will tell you if you have voltage, we NEED to use a voltage tester not a test light. We need to see how much voltage we have here. The red locking paint might need to be cleaned a little at the screw to get a good test. For this relay to reset and hold you need to maintain 12 VDC, these 2 pins are powering a coil that is rated for 12 VDC. If you hit an e-stop button on the unit or turn off the remote the voltage disappears and the relay unlocks, the 2 green lights go out and nothing works. So If you have no voltage here check for E-Stop buttons, Remote, Local/Remote switch in center position. A quick test for checking the remote is to set the Local/Remote switch to Local and check for voltage if the E-Stop resets and you have 12(+- 2 VDC), you have a remote issue, try your hard wire remote.

Always test with a Voltage tester not a light, also Test using the A2 (-) pin for ground, this is the ground the relay is using, if the wire from A2 to ground is bad the relay wont set either, A quick check for this is: Positive lead on A1, Negative lead on A2 look at the result, then move the Negative lead to Main ground in the Combi box and look at the result, No or low voltage at A1 and A2, and 13.6 at A1 and the Main ground point tells you that your problem is a bad ground from A2 to the main ground follow that part of the circuit.

Most of the time the issue is voltage drop, I get a comment like this “ I get the e-stop to clear and start pumping then I hit 2 or 3 boom functions and it goes back into e-stop, If I do one function at a time it stays on”. To avoid this or find the issue you need to test for voltage drop at A1. Have a helper for the remote, and you can do this with the boom closed just don’t put the transmission in gear, Engine running, PTO ON, not in gear on the trans, this way you can activate the electrical stuff and not bend boom arms. That's a different post.

Check for the voltage at A1 then clear the e-stop by honking the horn, turn on the pump see the voltage drop a little, next hit A arm, it dropped a little more didn’t it, then B, then slewing, then tip, Each function you activate is more draw on the circuit at some point the e-stop relay will drop out. Not from a bad e-stop button but from voltage drop.

The problem is current flow, look for loose or corroded wires in the e-stop switches or in the cable powering the remote receiver.

Open the boxes and look at the wires are they loose, give them a little yank did it pull out of the terminal or sleeve, One common source for resistance issues is corrosion in the cable due to washing the pump with acid, Acid loves concrete, copper and Chrome, It is not recommended to use Acid to wash pumps, I have seen it turn the wires green as far as 3 feet inside the plastic coating, a major source for voltage drop. Poor ground’s for the Combi Box and poor power from the truck are also big issues as the unit ages.

Take the time to do this easy test, if your voltage drops you can dig a little deeper to locate the problem, hopefully avoid the future issues caused from the lack of checking it. This is also the point to mention that Bypassing the E-Stop is a serious problem, if the power is not at the A1 pin then even if bypassed the remote wont work due to the fact that the remote is being powered with this same circuit. So bypassing is not the best way out of problems it presents Major Safety issues and most likely wont get you up and running on the remote.

As I said in the beginning this is the Basic start to troubleshooting the 12V Combi Box style, If you have a 24 V ZMSK style box the E-stop circuit is a little different, contact the Service Dept or e-mail me and we can go into the particulars deeper.

Here we have a Combi Box

As always the Customer support group is there to help answer questions. Use the tool available to you. All Mfg’s are motivated to helping you keep your unit operating.

Alan Woods

I will also be available to help if you have specific Putz questions.

800 890-0269 is the Main contact # 24/7

woodsa@putzam is my e-mail

360 600-5695 Cell

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